The second stop: Courtallam

In the blog on my trip to Tiruchendur, I shared that I'd be writing about other places in my upcoming blogs as a small series. So, this blog can be considered a continuation of it.

On Day 1, we went to Tiruchendur, as you already know through my previous blog. If you haven't read it yet, please do give it a read. Here is the link:

https://samiwritesunfiltered.blogspot.com/2026/06/temple-trails-part-1-tiruchendur.html⁠�

Since we started planning this trip, visiting Courtallam was always on the cards because it's been almost thirteen to fifteen years since we last went there. Yet, we are still able to reminisce about the beauty of nature we witnessed long ago. Courtallam, natively spelt Kutrālam or Kuttālam, is a panchayat town situated at a mean elevation of 160 m (520 ft) in the foothills of the Western Ghats in the Tenkasi district of Tamil Nadu, India. It is famously known as the "Spa of South India" due to the medicinal and therapeutic properties of its waters. 

It features nine waterfalls:

Main Falls (Peraruvi)

Five Falls (Aintharuvi)

Old Courtallam Falls

Tiger Falls

Small Falls (Chitraruvi)

Honey Falls (Thenaruvi)

Shenbaga Devi Falls

Orchard Falls

Milk Falls (Palaruvi) .(Internet)

So, around 9 a.m., we were watching the news to know the current updates. In Courtallam, the waterfall levels change depending on the weather conditions. If the water flow is too strong, it can lead to flooding, which may affect visitors. For safety reasons, entry is restricted during such times.

But there is another side to the coin as well. During the summer months, you may not find much water at all. Usually, the Courtallam season runs from mid-June to September, driven by the southwest monsoon. During this period, the waterfalls are replenished. A secondary, calmer season occurs from October to January during the northeast monsoon ( internet article). However, this isn't static. Conditions may change, and results may differ. People travelling hundreds of kilometres with this uncertainty often end up disappointed. We followed the news, and the shocking update was that all the falls had been closed due to flood alerts.

Naturally, we were disappointed.

But our driver suggested that we go and see for ourselves. Between those two to three hours of travelling time, conditions might change, and who knows you might be fortunate enough to immerse yourself in nature.

Gladly, nature heard his words and our saddened selves' rants. After an hour of travelling, we took a break for a cup of tea and a fresh samosa. In that chilly climate, sitting in a roadside bakery with hot snacks felt like pure bliss.

Once we reached Tenkasi, it felt like the trees were welcoming us with a soft exhale. Dreamy green fields stretched before us. It felt like stepping back into childhood, fully surrounded by nature and breathing in its sweet scent.

We reached Courtallam.

Policemen were standing there, and we thought, "Oh my God, that's it. They aren't going to allow us." But the good news was that they had just reopened the Five Falls.

When I witnessed the Five Falls, it felt like a dream.Water flowing from all directions, the roar of it, the fragrance in the air, and the moment itself—it all felt surreal. Initially, I couldn't even stand there properly. The water was falling from such a height and with such force that breathing felt difficult.

That's when I heard an elderly woman nearby say,"Close your ears and stand. You'll feel better."

I followed her advice. I stood there for some time, forgetting the world around me.

Literally, Moongil Kaadugale started playing in my ears. Though I was surrounded by hundreds of people, it felt like I had booked an entire theatre for myself, 

sitting alone,

immersed in the performance,

with crystal-clear sonic precision.

My mother had literally become her younger self—the girl who used to visit Courtallam every year with her father. She told us how she wouldn't come out of the water until she wished to. At night, they would cook non-vegetarian food there, eat to their hearts' content, and then take another bath. What beautiful days she had lived. And I'm glad this trip took her back to those cherished memories. Perhaps every droplet that fell on her made her feel her father's presence once again.

Then we decided to visit Chitraruvi. Initially, we hesitated because an elderly man told us we had to walk nearly two kilometres to reach it. After already taking a complete beating from the Five Falls, walking sounded exhausting.

Somehow, we continued. The happy part was that it was only a few metres away. Good thing we didn't completely believe that thatha.

Chitraruvi felt like a waterfall inside a private villa.

There weren't many people at all.

I'm glad we chose to come here.

More than the Five Falls, I spent time here because the intensity of the water was much gentler, making it perfect for a peaceful bath.

We had plans to visit a few more waterfalls, but since we had a function at our relatives' house, we had to head back.

Yes, not being able to visit all the falls was a small regret. But it's okay. Those two waterfalls alone gave us memories and satisfaction for a lifetime. To not only take the essence of Courtallam, we also took its taste home with us.

We bought rambutan, a spiky red fruit that looks so unique that even looking at it feels satisfying and mangosteen as well.

There is a famous hotel near the border called Rahmath Hotel, and my brother suggested we have lunch there. There were literally hundreds of people standing in a queue.That alone made me curious and eager to know whether it was really worth the hype. In our wet clothes, after letting the sun do its work and dry them a little, we sat down for lunch. Their parotta and salna were the best. Especially when your body is cold and the parottas are served  hot.

It somehow melts away the chill.

A deadly combination indeed I must say.

Then we rushed home.

Even in that urgency, we stopped once in between and simply breathed in the fresh air because moments like that are rare. It was a unique blend of cold water mist, wet rocks, and crushed green leaves.

We came back home carrying eternal experiences. Experiences that, I believe, every human being should somehow witness at least once in their lifetime.